January 21, 2011 Paris
But Demeulemeester is no airy fairy. She was quick to point out the new construction of her clothes, based around a series of precise horizontal cuts that left jackets and coats flying open. "It's not deconstruction," she said sharply, quite aware of the reputation that dogs her in the fashion world. "It's a new way to give movement." She was right. The hermetic layering of her clothing in the past had been opened up to the world, and it was inviting. Still, layering provided one of the collection's most alluring effects, with leggings and leather pants veiled in silk.
Longtime muse Patti Smith and Lenny Kaye, in Paris to perform last night, leapt to their feet at show's end. Putting the official seal of approval on a vintage Demeulemeester collection, Smith swooned backstage, "I'm in love all over again."