Bespoken
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REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, February 12, 2011
By Matthew Schneier
A great-grandfather who'd been a British Royal Navy man in World War II gave the Fayed and Goncalves Brothers, the synod of families that run Bespoken, the inspiration for their latest outing. A seaman needs clothes that are hardy and resilient: thick, chunky knits, water-resistant waxed cotton, insulating tweeds. The nod to an earlier era gave the brothers the opportunity to point up the role of heritage in the brand—no small consideration, considering the Fayed family also runs the English clothiers Turnbull & Asser, founded in 1885. The theme gave a focus to the collection that the label's last outing lacked. But the most literal winks to great-grandpa Burt on the briny were where the collection fell flat. They didn't tell the real story here, which is this: The line is expanding by leaps and bounds, introducing a footwear program (a lace-up derby, a desert boot, and a lug-soled utility boot) and fine cashmere/lambswool knits, with yarn from Scotland's J.M. Rennie & Co. (est'd. 1798). The line is also moving, happily, in a more formally tailored direction, with the unstructured jackets introduced last season mostly giving way to sharp-shouldered, slightly roped, proper English sport coats and suits.
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Fall 2011 Menswear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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Acne Adam Kimmel Agnès B. Alexander McQueen Alexis Mabille Ann Demeulemeester Antonio Azzuolo -
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Balenciaga Bally Balmain Band of Outsiders Bespoken Billy Reid Bottega Veneta Buckler Burberry Prorsum -
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Calvin Klein Collection Canali Christophe Lemaire Comme des Garçons Costume National Custo Barcelona -
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D&G Dior Homme DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duckie Brown Dunhill -
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E. Tautz Edun Elie Tahari Emporio Armani Ermenegildo Zegna Etro -
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Gant by Michael Bastian Gap Gianfranco Ferré Gilded Age Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Henrik Vibskov Hermès -
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Iceberg Issey Miyake -
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J.Crew James Long Jean Paul Gaultier Jil Sander John Galliano John Richmond John Varvatos Junya Watanabe -
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Kenzo Kris Van Assche -
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Lanvin Libertine Loden Dager Louis Vuitton -
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Maison Martin Margiela Marc Jacobs Men Marni Michael Kors Miharayasuhiro Missoni Moncler Gamme Bleu Moncler Grenoble Moschino Mugler -
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N.Hoolywood Neil Barrett Nicholas K -
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Patrik Ervell Paul Smith Perry Ellis Prada Pringle of Scotland -
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RAD by Rad Hourani Raf Simons Rag & Bone Richard Chai Rick Owens Robert Geller Roberto Cavalli Roland Mouret Mr. -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Shipley & Halmos Simon Spurr Steven Alan -
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T by Alexander Wang Thom Browne Tim Hamilton Timo Weiland Tommy Hilfiger Trussardi -
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Umit Benan -
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Versace Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Westwood -
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Walter Van Beirendonck Woolrich Woolen Mills -
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Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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