Fall 2011 Menswear
January 16, 2011 Milan
Canali is one of Italy's finest suitmakers, and for its full-scale runway show this season, it took the opportunity to show what it does best: No jeans crept into the mix here. But the show was also unabashedly a play for the younger customer. The cut and styling on display smartly drew on the growing interest of the under-forties in suits these past few years, but also the sharpened-up way in which they like to have them tailored. Trousers were shortened and tightened—Canali calls them cigarette pants now—and given a hearty cuff (something that's winding its slow way back into the repertoire of the younger men's editors, and used here to show off a variety of colorful socks). Accessories, from those socks to the oversized scarves that opened the show, livened up the offering, too. These are still suits that are eminently business-friendly and totally appropriate for even the stodgiest CEO, but the dandified strain that ran through kept things interesting. Even a schlub could be a seducer in looks like these. And then there were those—like a series of velvet suits in pastel, sherbet tones—that were unapologetically sensual. Caveat emptor: experts only.