Comme des Garçons
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REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
PARIS, January 21, 2011
By Tim Blanks
Imagine the final fashion show on the final night of western civilization. Rei Kawakubo had the most appropriate word for it: "Decadence." She showed a collection that literally piled reference on reference like a mad last gasp, starting with the little poodle-y wig plopped on top of each model's head. Kawakubo made some pretty incongruous connections: between denim and dense jacquard, between a U2 tee and a Lurex-threaded cutaway jacket, between tuxedos and pajamas, and on a bigger stage, between diametrically opposed cultures like Japan and China. That was the brocade-and-complex-pant subtext. And yet the shabby, silken languor of the clothes also put you in mind of palazzo-panted cocktails on the terrace of Lucille Ball's home in Beverly Hills on a lazy Sunday afternoon. In other words, the collection embraced a multitude of alternate realities.That has always been Kawakubo's ineffable genius. Here, she mushed the propriety of Edwardian England together with the sparkly tack of Vegas-as-mammon, then mixed in a handful of disciplinary mid-calf felted military coats. It made for a typically obtuse vision of cultural apocalypse. But there's an irresistible conviction to her vision. As Elvis, the godhead of another strong-willed hybrid of sane and crazy, might opine from on high: "I can't help falling in love with you."
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Fall 2011 Menswear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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Acne Adam Kimmel Agnès B. Alexander McQueen Alexis Mabille Ann Demeulemeester Antonio Azzuolo -
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Balenciaga Bally Balmain Band of Outsiders Bespoken Billy Reid Bottega Veneta Buckler Burberry Prorsum -
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Calvin Klein Collection Canali Christophe Lemaire Comme des Garçons Costume National Custo Barcelona -
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D&G Dior Homme DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duckie Brown Dunhill -
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E. Tautz Edun Elie Tahari Emporio Armani Ermenegildo Zegna Etro -
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Gant by Michael Bastian Gap Gianfranco Ferré Gilded Age Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Henrik Vibskov Hermès -
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Iceberg Issey Miyake -
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J.Crew James Long Jean Paul Gaultier Jil Sander John Galliano John Richmond John Varvatos Junya Watanabe -
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Kenzo Kris Van Assche -
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Lanvin Libertine Loden Dager Louis Vuitton -
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Maison Martin Margiela Marc Jacobs Men Marni Michael Kors Miharayasuhiro Missoni Moncler Gamme Bleu Moncler Grenoble Moschino Mugler -
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Patrik Ervell Paul Smith Perry Ellis Prada Pringle of Scotland -
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RAD by Rad Hourani Raf Simons Rag & Bone Richard Chai Rick Owens Robert Geller Roberto Cavalli Roland Mouret Mr. -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Shipley & Halmos Simon Spurr Steven Alan -
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T by Alexander Wang Thom Browne Tim Hamilton Timo Weiland Tommy Hilfiger Trussardi -
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Umit Benan -
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Versace Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Westwood -
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Walter Van Beirendonck Woolrich Woolen Mills -
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