At Salvatore Ferragamo
, Massimiliano Giornetti opened with neutral creams and winter whites, but it was a red herring of sorts. Over the course of his collection, out marched a series of colorful suits—full tone-on-tone looks, in fact, in penny-bright copper, bottle green, and oceanic teal. The driving spirit was the seventies: the slightly boot-cut three-piece suits, acres of lapel, and all the suede. The soundtrack cued up the Doors and Lou Reed. "What I really want to tell is a story of a sensual man," Giornetti said at his studio the day before the show. Sensual it was—sometimes too much so. A few overly literal looks would have been best left back in the seventies. That said, swagger is emerging as this season's Milanese have-to-have, and at Ferragamo it was even built into the shoes: heavy-soled horse-leather boots crisscrossed with buckled straps. "Making the sole heavier is really making the guys walk with more strength and energy in the show," Giornetti explained. Let's say it: They strut.