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Giorgio Armani

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MILAN, January 18, 2011
By Tim Blanks
The concept of the remix has been at the heart of pop culture for years, but Giorgio Armani invoked it today to describe a collection that consolidated the designer's classics with an updated twist here and there. Ease has been an Armani calling card since he first arrived on the fashion stage nearly four decades ago, and here it was made even easier. The show opened with a very serious coat contradicted by gray flannel trousers cut like track pants, and closed with a group of evening clothes in black velvet that were casual enough to make the transition from red carpet to gym. (You can imagine Armani's young Hollywood acolytes enjoying that notion.)

The designer's ability to knock the stuffing out of the conventional remains untainted by time. A black leather top peeked out from under a windowpane-checked jacket, a double-breasted jacket was as soft as a cashmere cardigan, and the stripe down a trouser leg could have equally connoted tuxedo or, again, tracksuit. He's adapted his silhouette—trousers were slightly pegged; jackets were shorter, with a dropped lapel—and he continued with the longer coats that were a hit at Emporio the other day. But the lush monochrome of Armani's palette—this time, every shade of gray, from elephant to dove—is an enduring staple. Likewise the wry humor, here expressed in a sarong printed with one of his most famous publicity shots. You don't think he's laughing?

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