Gianfranco Ferré
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REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
MILAN, January 16, 2011
By Tim Blanks
"The fantasy of women is the banker with the big credit card," twinkled Roberto Rimondi as he clarified the Wall Street inspiration for the new Gianfranco Ferré menswear collection he had designed with partner Tommaso Aquilano. "A real man," Rimondi added, although millions of the recently dispossessed might disagree with that conclusion. In much the same way as they might have reservations about a wardrobe that was composed of exaggerated mid-eighties volumes in the kind of checks and stripes that once connoted the Flash Harries of our savagely flawed financial system. No faulting Aquilano and Rimondi's historical accuracy there, though they insisted they'd modernized and ironized the proposition by softening it and injecting color. Less structure, more cashmere, and some green pinstripes. The late Mr. Ferré dressed big men with big bucks, and those days are gone, taking the fortunes of his company with them. As they wait for plans for new ownership to solidify, Aquilano and Rimondi are trying to fight a valiant rearguard action.COMMENTS
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Fall 2011 Menswear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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Acne Adam Kimmel Agnès B. Alexander McQueen Alexis Mabille Ann Demeulemeester Antonio Azzuolo -
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Balenciaga Bally Balmain Band of Outsiders Bespoken Billy Reid Bottega Veneta Buckler Burberry Prorsum -
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Calvin Klein Collection Canali Christophe Lemaire Comme des Garçons Costume National Custo Barcelona -
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D&G Dior Homme DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duckie Brown Dunhill -
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E. Tautz Edun Elie Tahari Emporio Armani Ermenegildo Zegna Etro -
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Gant by Michael Bastian Gap Gianfranco Ferré Gilded Age Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Henrik Vibskov Hermès -
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Iceberg Issey Miyake -
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J.Crew James Long Jean Paul Gaultier Jil Sander John Galliano John Richmond John Varvatos Junya Watanabe -
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Kenzo Kris Van Assche -
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Lanvin Libertine Loden Dager Louis Vuitton -
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Maison Martin Margiela Marc Jacobs Men Marni Michael Kors Miharayasuhiro Missoni Moncler Gamme Bleu Moncler Grenoble Moschino Mugler -
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N.Hoolywood Neil Barrett Nicholas K -
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Patrik Ervell Paul Smith Perry Ellis Prada Pringle of Scotland -
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RAD by Rad Hourani Raf Simons Rag & Bone Richard Chai Rick Owens Robert Geller Roberto Cavalli Roland Mouret Mr. -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Shipley & Halmos Simon Spurr Steven Alan -
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T by Alexander Wang Thom Browne Tim Hamilton Timo Weiland Tommy Hilfiger Trussardi -
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Umit Benan -
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Versace Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Westwood -
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Walter Van Beirendonck Woolrich Woolen Mills -
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