Gilded Age
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REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, February 9, 2011
By Matthew Schneier
It's freezing in New York this week, so climbing the stairs to Gilded Age's Fall presentation and finding an arctic inspiration—well, you sympathize. You also, handily enough, want to wear plenty of the clothes. Designer Stefan Miljanich often looks to travel and history to inspire his collections, but occasionally his journeys lead him astray. Last season's South Pacific Spring struck an off note. But Fall's offering, inspired by Admiral Robert Peary's voyages to Greenland and the North Pole, found Miljanich back in fine form. "We wanted to get this sense of expedition that comes across in the layering—having this warm clothing and putting it all together," he explained. "We call it expedition grunge."Between the piled-on styling (courtesy of Jason Rider, and owing a fair bit, perhaps, to Japanese hipster chic) and the younger, cooler casting, there was a freshness to the whole. Styling this aggressive is a gambit; then again, so is a trip to the North Pole. Pull it apart, and there were fine pieces: alpaca hand-knits, distressed leather jackets, and—the label's bread and butter—Japanese selvage denims. Good Admiral Peary would be surprised to find himself inspiring looks like these (though you could walk on an ice floe in those crushing Chippewa hiking boots). But as inspirations go, Miljanich got it right this time.
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Fall 2011 Menswear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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Acne Adam Kimmel Agnès B. Alexander McQueen Alexis Mabille Ann Demeulemeester Antonio Azzuolo -
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Balenciaga Bally Balmain Band of Outsiders Bespoken Billy Reid Bottega Veneta Buckler Burberry Prorsum -
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Calvin Klein Collection Canali Christophe Lemaire Comme des Garçons Costume National Custo Barcelona -
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D&G Dior Homme DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duckie Brown Dunhill -
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E. Tautz Edun Elie Tahari Emporio Armani Ermenegildo Zegna Etro -
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Gant by Michael Bastian Gap Gianfranco Ferré Gilded Age Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Henrik Vibskov Hermès -
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Iceberg Issey Miyake -
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J.Crew James Long Jean Paul Gaultier Jil Sander John Galliano John Richmond John Varvatos Junya Watanabe -
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Kenzo Kris Van Assche -
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Lanvin Libertine Loden Dager Louis Vuitton -
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Maison Martin Margiela Marc Jacobs Men Marni Michael Kors Miharayasuhiro Missoni Moncler Gamme Bleu Moncler Grenoble Moschino Mugler -
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N.Hoolywood Neil Barrett Nicholas K -
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Patrik Ervell Paul Smith Perry Ellis Prada Pringle of Scotland -
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RAD by Rad Hourani Raf Simons Rag & Bone Richard Chai Rick Owens Robert Geller Roberto Cavalli Roland Mouret Mr. -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Shipley & Halmos Simon Spurr Steven Alan -
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T by Alexander Wang Thom Browne Tim Hamilton Timo Weiland Tommy Hilfiger Trussardi -
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Umit Benan -
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Versace Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Westwood -
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Walter Van Beirendonck Woolrich Woolen Mills -
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Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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