February 11, 2011 New York
So the new collection breaks down into five archetypes of masculinity, Steward-inspired: the student, the professor, the biker, the preppy sailor, and the man-about-town. That's a long way of saying Marlow and his co-designer, Oliver Helden, are working hard to make sure their line is diversified among price points and styles—that there's something for everyone. The same logic guided their decision to tone down LD's usually bold color palette to make it more approachable (though some brilliant chinos, in vermilion and gold, did sneak through). The student will wear woven Henleys, retailing for little enough to serve as an introduction to the line.
And at the other end of the spectrum, men-about-town can get made-in-New York formal suiting, courtesy of a new partnership with the revered tailor Martin Greenfield. In between came a little of everything else. If there's a complaint to be made, it's that the all-things-to-all-people approach left the collection feeling a little rudderless; it wasn't easy to connect the dots. But it was easy to pick out pieces that had great appeal, like the patch-pocket cargo pants or hand-knit sweaters with rainbow blocks. And for all the reining in and butching up—good-bye, pink suits of days gone by!—there were plenty of places where the Loden Dager smile still got smirked. A snowflake-printed jammies set, for instance, fit for a kid on Christmas morning, or a shining black motorcycle jacket, resplendent in sheared mink.