Marc Jacobs Men
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REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
MILAN, January 18, 2011
By Matthew Schneier
Many in Milan and plenty in Paris opted for a softer, more masculine cut for their menswear this season, but few gave it a backstory as good as the team at Marc Jacobs. They were inspired by Michael Burn, who died in September of last year and whose New York Times obit—"Writer and Adventurer"—gives short shrift to the breadth of his experience and the wonderful, occasionally scandalous picaresque that was his life. Well born and daring, he socialized with the Mitfords, flirted briefly with fascism, romanced the British spy Guy Burgess, was captured in heroic action by the Germans during WWII, and, mostly by happenstance, saved the life of the young Audrey Hepburn. Where's the Burn biopic?When it comes, at least you know who's bound to costume it. The MJ team drew upon Burn's aristocratic elegance for long coats trimmed with fur, and his military experience for army-inspired cargos and field jackets. This season, suit shoulders were more pronounced—some roped for what the label called a "cigarillo" shoulder—and pants were wider at the hips and slightly cropped. Between the use of fur and soft suiting, the collection felt solidly in step with the trends of the season. A collaboration with the graffiti artist Bäst, who contributed custom prints, brought more of a New York energy, though at times it seemed a little misplaced among the Old World finery. The Jacobs wit is better applied in smaller doses, as with a group of sweaters treated to look pilled. They looked lived-in, like old favorites.
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Fall 2011 Menswear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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Acne Adam Kimmel Agnès B. Alexander McQueen Alexis Mabille Ann Demeulemeester Antonio Azzuolo -
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Balenciaga Bally Balmain Band of Outsiders Bespoken Billy Reid Bottega Veneta Buckler Burberry Prorsum -
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Calvin Klein Collection Canali Christophe Lemaire Comme des Garçons Costume National Custo Barcelona -
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E. Tautz Edun Elie Tahari Emporio Armani Ermenegildo Zegna Etro -
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Gant by Michael Bastian Gap Gianfranco Ferré Gilded Age Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Henrik Vibskov Hermès -
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Iceberg Issey Miyake -
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Kenzo Kris Van Assche -
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Lanvin Libertine Loden Dager Louis Vuitton -
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Maison Martin Margiela Marc Jacobs Men Marni Michael Kors Miharayasuhiro Missoni Moncler Gamme Bleu Moncler Grenoble Moschino Mugler -
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Patrik Ervell Paul Smith Perry Ellis Prada Pringle of Scotland -
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