Marc Jacobs Men
January 17, 2011 Milan
When it comes, at least you know who's bound to costume it. The MJ team drew upon Burn's aristocratic elegance for long coats trimmed with fur, and his military experience for army-inspired cargos and field jackets. This season, suit shoulders were more pronounced—some roped for what the label called a "cigarillo" shoulder—and pants were wider at the hips and slightly cropped. Between the use of fur and soft suiting, the collection felt solidly in step with the trends of the season. A collaboration with the graffiti artist Bäst, who contributed custom prints, brought more of a New York energy, though at times it seemed a little misplaced among the Old World finery. The Jacobs wit is better applied in smaller doses, as with a group of sweaters treated to look pilled. They looked lived-in, like old favorites.