Roberto Cavalli
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REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
MILAN, January 15, 2011
By Matthew Schneier
The seventies has exerted such a potent influence on women's fashion these past few seasons that perhaps it was inevitable that it would make its presence known in men's. It certainly did tonight at Roberto Cavalli (who, to give the man his due, has been in the fashion game before, during, and after the seventies). The theme and title of his show was Groovy Mood.Want to feel groovy alla Cavalli? Slip on one of the slightly shimmery three-piece suits that were the collection's major statement in coppery rust, camel, gray, and icy blue. The jackets were ultra-fitted, cut close to the shoulder, and paired with waistcoats like breastplates—"like armors," Cavalli said approvingly before the show. The pants were slightly flared, and they were shown with silk shirts and accessorized to the hilt with foulards, necklaces, or feathers and pointy, Spanish-heeled boots.
"Groovy is a lifestyle," Cavalli proclaimed. Could be. Entrée into the designer's own ultra-fabulous world has always been the biggest selling point of his often over-the-top allure. But apart from a few key outerwear pieces—some decade-appropriate shearlings, and a few lavishly lapelled coats—translating his vision of the season off the runway won't be the easiest feat. As shown here, it felt like an all-or-nothing proposition—not least when, for the finale, the strutters all donned what can only be called pimp hats. Groovester, fall back!
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Fall 2011 Menswear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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Acne Adam Kimmel Agnès B. Alexander McQueen Alexis Mabille Ann Demeulemeester Antonio Azzuolo -
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Balenciaga Bally Balmain Band of Outsiders Bespoken Billy Reid Bottega Veneta Buckler Burberry Prorsum -
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Calvin Klein Collection Canali Christophe Lemaire Comme des Garçons Costume National Custo Barcelona -
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D&G Dior Homme DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duckie Brown Dunhill -
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E. Tautz Edun Elie Tahari Emporio Armani Ermenegildo Zegna Etro -
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Gant by Michael Bastian Gap Gianfranco Ferré Gilded Age Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Henrik Vibskov Hermès -
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Iceberg Issey Miyake -
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J.Crew James Long Jean Paul Gaultier Jil Sander John Galliano John Richmond John Varvatos Junya Watanabe -
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Kenzo Kris Van Assche -
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Lanvin Libertine Loden Dager Louis Vuitton -
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Maison Martin Margiela Marc Jacobs Men Marni Michael Kors Miharayasuhiro Missoni Moncler Gamme Bleu Moncler Grenoble Moschino Mugler -
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Patrik Ervell Paul Smith Perry Ellis Prada Pringle of Scotland -
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RAD by Rad Hourani Raf Simons Rag & Bone Richard Chai Rick Owens Robert Geller Roberto Cavalli Roland Mouret Mr. -
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T by Alexander Wang Thom Browne Tim Hamilton Timo Weiland Tommy Hilfiger Trussardi -
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Umit Benan -
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Versace Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Westwood -
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Walter Van Beirendonck Woolrich Woolen Mills -
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