Richard Chai
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REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, February 12, 2011
By Matthew Schneier
Last season, Richard Chai mined a vein of youth culture—a kind of hazy, Cali surf-and-skate vibe—that yielded a surprising, charming show. For Fall, he left the old look in the dust. And wouldn't you know it? He nailed it again. "Coming off last season, which was really eclectic, I wanted to strip a lot of that away," Chai said in his studio before the presentation. "There's a new sharpness that I've been really inspired by." The palette was toned down and kept mostly in the realm of gray and black, and styled in orderly, tonal looks; blousy layers were replaced by streamlined, structured ones, cut nearer to the body. Wool silk blazers and felted wool outerwear pieces hit square on the shoulder, and were nipped in at the waist. The waist, in fact, became a point of emphasis: Wool trousers sat evenly on it; one particularly desirable cropped peacoat was cropped right at the belt line. It all gave the new collection more of a masculine heft. Even the mixing in of sportier pieces like long-john leggings and nylon blousons didn't dispel that hint. Kids: They grow up so fast these days! Just a season ago, they were playing in the sand. But if you miss those youthful days, take heart. They were recalled in a section of pajama dressing featuring piped cotton PJ tops and pants printed, quite prettily in fact, with birds. See all from Richard Chai › Timeline
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Fall 2011 Menswear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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Acne Adam Kimmel Agnès B. Alexander McQueen Alexis Mabille Ann Demeulemeester Antonio Azzuolo -
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Balenciaga Bally Balmain Band of Outsiders Bespoken Billy Reid Bottega Veneta Buckler Burberry Prorsum -
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Calvin Klein Collection Canali Christophe Lemaire Comme des Garçons Costume National Custo Barcelona -
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D&G Dior Homme DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duckie Brown Dunhill -
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E. Tautz Edun Elie Tahari Emporio Armani Ermenegildo Zegna Etro -
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Gant by Michael Bastian Gap Gianfranco Ferré Gilded Age Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Henrik Vibskov Hermès -
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Iceberg Issey Miyake -
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J.Crew James Long Jean Paul Gaultier Jil Sander John Galliano John Richmond John Varvatos Junya Watanabe -
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Kenzo Kris Van Assche -
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Lanvin Libertine Loden Dager Louis Vuitton -
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Maison Martin Margiela Marc Jacobs Men Marni Michael Kors Miharayasuhiro Missoni Moncler Gamme Bleu Moncler Grenoble Moschino Mugler -
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N.Hoolywood Neil Barrett Nicholas K -
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Patrik Ervell Paul Smith Perry Ellis Prada Pringle of Scotland -
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RAD by Rad Hourani Raf Simons Rag & Bone Richard Chai Rick Owens Robert Geller Roberto Cavalli Roland Mouret Mr. -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Shipley & Halmos Simon Spurr Steven Alan -
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T by Alexander Wang Thom Browne Tim Hamilton Timo Weiland Tommy Hilfiger Trussardi -
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Umit Benan -
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Versace Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Westwood -
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Walter Van Beirendonck Woolrich Woolen Mills -
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Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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