February 10, 2011 New York
So, at least, the story goes. You had to squint a bit to read it on the runway. Geller pulled back on some of the sportier pieces and wider shapes he showed for Spring and re-emphasized the louche, texturized, tailored pieces on which he built his brand. The gem tones he'd used became a dustier, more muted palette. But there was much here that didn't push forward far enough, and some of the lush fabrications felt off. There are, as always, plenty of strong, interesting pieces, and ones that will no doubt engage Geller men once they hit the sales floor. But for a season premised on growing up, this was a collection that still felt young. The quasi-fetal casting didn't help. In a parade of Tadzios, you searched for an Aschenbach. And every few looks, a glimmer would appear: a sand-colored wool overcoat, effortlessly mature, ultimately elegant. The future lies that way.