February 09, 2011 New York
Proportion usually gets goosed chez Hamilton, too. In both collections, jackets and shirts were lengthened to slightly creepy, attenuated effect, layered short-over-long. Hand-knit sweaters got long sleeves but cropped bodies. For men, shell-like outerwear in rubberized vinyl and neoprene looked protective, futuristic, and a little mutant. Uniforms and military trappings tend to loom large in Hamilton's imagination, and he mentioned Aldous Huxley's dystopian fantasies as a point of reference. There was a bellicose quality overall, only heightened by the glowering, street-tough models and their scowling doppelgängers, the boys in longtime collaborator Collier Schorr's photographs, printed on cotton T-shirts (part of Hamilton's secondary Redux range). With all that stewing, the Bleckner prints lent a kind of cooling levity; there was also some warm-blooded heat from the hints of shearling lining or the occasional blast of vermilion red. Some more of that wouldn't hurt. Brave New World it may be—but baby, it's cold out there!