Trussardi
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MILAN, January 12, 2011
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Dante Trussardi went into business 100 years ago making leather gloves, and his skill with skins was such that he soon counted the crowned heads (and hands) of Europe as clients. Trussardi 1911 is still very much a family affair—Dante's great-granddaughter Beatrice is now in charge—but it was current creative director Milan Vukmirovic who decided to mark the centenary with a show that celebrated leather in every possible permutation, plus some that seemed impossible. Take a parka in a camo-printed leather so fine it was almost as translucent as nylon. Or a white cotton tee that was actually chamois leather. In fact, there was nothing in the collection that wasn't leather, from the corduroy-look poncho to the athleticwear to the black suede tux with the satin-look lapel. The parade of head-to-toe hides succeeded best as a salute to a century of Trussardi's extraordinary expertise, rather than as an incitement to don a second skin. Vukmirovic himself saw it as a punctuation point, cleaning the slate for the future. The head-scratchers like the paper-thin leather camo were eye-catching, but reassuringly, it was the more "ordinary" pieces that pointed to that future. Cue a parka in glistening black pony.The Trussardi show was billed as the Main Event at Pitti. The evening celebrated not only fashion, but also the company's commitment to the best of everything else Italy has to offer. The Stazione Leopolda, the show venue, hosted an exhibition of quite startling works from the Fondazione Nicola Trussardi's collection of contemporary art. And Andrea Berton, the chef at the Trussardis' two-Michelin-starred restaurant in Milan, prepared an anniversary dinner after the show. A little fashion, a little art, a little food, all against the high Renaissance backdrop of Florence…Pitti it's over so soon.
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