Timo Weiland and his design partner, Alan Eckstein, were inspired by the vestiges of colonial India for their latest collection. They envisioned a fictional trip that Gloria Vanderbilt and Keith Richards took there in the sixties. "This is what they looked like when they came back," Weiland explained at the sitar-scored presentation this morning. Clothes in a second. First, a moment to imagine the doyenne and the drug-fueled rocker cavorting together in Bombay. Now that's a trip.

The Indian influence was felt in the print, a tweaked image of the Himalayas at sunset, and a custom Bengal tiger jacquard, which appeared as a scalloped-hem cocktail dress and a double-breasted women's jacket. You got a sense of subcontinental dressing in the rich, embroidered gold jacquards they used, too, and the way gold was woven through a few netlike blouses. For the men, the gist was less of India than its expatriate English residents: Weiland spoke warmly of a Prince of Wales check, which was shown as a patch-pocket blazer and a shirt—together in one look.

That's a lot of look; more-on-more is practically a house rule at this label. But actually, Fall found Weiland and Eckstein in smartly subdued form. They're never going to make basics, and really, there's no reason that they should. But scaling back on some of the squall of seasons past helped let the strongest pieces shine. And when they did, they gave sparkle without the old glare.