February 11, 2011
A few weeks ago, the small workshop in Uruguay that Adam Lippes uses for his hand-knit sweaters burned to the ground, destroying a good portion of his Fall collection. But Lippes knew the show must go on, so he got resourceful and hired a local ladies' knitting circle at the last minute to replicate the designs he lost in the fire. And yes, the show did proceed seamlessly, chunky knits included. This season was spurred by a recent visit to the National Museum of the American Indian, so an indigenous influence was detectible. There was an elaborate shift dress with a skirt of dégradé feathers sewn over tiny gold sequins for a bit of shine; a mid-calf skirt made from patchworked lamb fur; and a raccoon coat that was simultaneously wild and refined.
The Native American theme was more subtle for most of the lineup, where spot-on tailoring took center stage. A long, blush pink vest with leather piping was paired with a matching collarless wool topper for a clean silhouette. And a crepe de chine jumpsuit with crisscross straps was simple, sexy, and flattering. But the blockbuster hit with buyers is sure to be the delicate Chantilly lace T-shirt shown in black and cream—it'll go with everything.