A Détacher
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REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, February 15, 2011
By Maya Singer
"You know, Mona is launching activewear this season," deadpanned Assembly New York owner Greg Armas at the start of today's A Détacher show. "Activewear for reading." Armas—a devotee of A Détacher—was joking. But "activewear for girls who read" wouldn't be a bad way of describing Mona Kowalska's clothes. A slinky sweater dress, for example, somewhat sheer around the collarbone and banded at the bottom, is just the kind of chic, easy piece that works perfectly well for an art opening, a matinee at the Film Forum, dinner at the Waverly, or an evening cozied up on the sofa with Lydia Davis' new translation of Madame Bovary. Ditto a silk jumpsuit in a graphic purple and white squiggle print, or an extra-long, grass green cashmere cardigan.There was a particularly academic, tweedy feel to A Détacher this season, never mind the absence of any actual tweed. Wide-wale corduroy jackets and dirndl skirts came off boho-preppy, while sweaters with knit-in ruffle details and long shift dresses were winningly gamine. Some of the strongest looks here were the most pared-back, notably a collarless blouse and high-waist trouser combo in contrasting shades of gray wool, topped by a surprisingly understated purple fur vest. Again: easy, chic. Kowalska also impressed with this season's accessories: A nubby knit, used in vests and long scarves, also featured in the must-have headband/kerchief hats worn by all the models, and a simple white clutch bag was minimally perfect. All in all, it was another collection of exceptionally smart clothes that are no-brainers to wear—and therefore leave plenty of mental space free for thinking about other things.
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Fall 2011 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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Edun Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio de la Morena Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Farah Angsana Fashion East Felder Felder Felipe Oliveira Baptista Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio Frank Tell -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gap Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Armour Gregory Parkinson G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Hakaan Halston Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland -
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Iceberg Imitation of Christ Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Karen Walker Kelly Wearstler Kenzo Kevork Kiledjian Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lanvin Lela Rose Libertine Limi Feu Loewe Louise Gray Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luisa Beccaria Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan NAHM Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Neil Barrett Nicholas K Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci No. 21 Norma Kamali -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
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Paul & Joe Paul Smith Pedro Lourenço Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Philosophy Piazza Sempione Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Sacai Sachin + Babi Salvatore Ferragamo Sass & Bide Sharon Wauchob Sonia Rykiel Sophie Theallet Sportmax St. John Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Steven Alan Suno -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vanessa Bruno Vena Cava Vera Wang Véronique Leroy Versace Versus Victoria Beckham Viktor & Rolf Vionnet Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Wayne Wes Gordon Willow -
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Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo Z Spoke by Zac Posen
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