February 14, 2011 New York
There was a particularly academic, tweedy feel to A Détacher this season, never mind the absence of any actual tweed. Wide-wale corduroy jackets and dirndl skirts came off boho-preppy, while sweaters with knit-in ruffle details and long shift dresses were winningly gamine. Some of the strongest looks here were the most pared-back, notably a collarless blouse and high-waist trouser combo in contrasting shades of gray wool, topped by a surprisingly understated purple fur vest. Again: easy, chic. Kowalska also impressed with this season's accessories: A nubby knit, used in vests and long scarves, also featured in the must-have headband/kerchief hats worn by all the models, and a simple white clutch bag was minimally perfect. All in all, it was another collection of exceptionally smart clothes that are no-brainers to wear—and therefore leave plenty of mental space free for thinking about other things.