Andrew Gn
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REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
PARIS, March 6, 2011
By Nicole Phelps
Last season's long-skirted hippies deluxe may have been a leap too far for Andrew Gn and his blue-chip clients. For Fall, he returned to more familiar territory, finding inspiration in the work of the twentieth-century architects and interior designers Pierre Chareau and Eileen Gray. What he came up with was essentially a collection of shirts, jackets, and coats, with simple leather pants or jersey leggings acting as an easel upon which his canvases, with all of their flourishes, could be displayed.By flourishes we mean the hand-pleated, fan-shaped collar of a triple organza blouse that grazed the model's chin; the neckline of a plissé tulle top embroidered with a bib of tonal crystals; and the asymmetrical lapels of a jacket, one side swathed in fox, the other picked out in jet. A pair of black day dresses got the same kind of treatment. They were the picture of restraint, except for their Art Deco necklines.
Evening was a similar story—beaded bodices with metallic or jewel-tone silk falling in orderly pleats to the floor. There's no faulting Gn's exquisite fabrics or couture-level techniques, but as rich as it was in that sense, the focus on the upper half of the body made this show feel repetitive. It would've been nice to see Gn apply his robust imagination to skirts, pants, and a cocktail frock or two.
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Fall 2011 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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Edun Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio de la Morena Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Farah Angsana Fashion East Felder Felder Felipe Oliveira Baptista Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio Frank Tell -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gap Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Armour Gregory Parkinson G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Hakaan Halston Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland -
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Iceberg Imitation of Christ Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Karen Walker Kelly Wearstler Kenzo Kevork Kiledjian Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lanvin Lela Rose Libertine Limi Feu Loewe Louise Gray Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luisa Beccaria Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan NAHM Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Neil Barrett Nicholas K Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci No. 21 Norma Kamali -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
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Paul & Joe Paul Smith Pedro Lourenço Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Philosophy Piazza Sempione Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Sacai Sachin + Babi Salvatore Ferragamo Sass & Bide Sharon Wauchob Sonia Rykiel Sophie Theallet Sportmax St. John Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Steven Alan Suno -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vanessa Bruno Vena Cava Vera Wang Véronique Leroy Versace Versus Victoria Beckham Viktor & Rolf Vionnet Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Wayne Wes Gordon Willow -
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Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo Z Spoke by Zac Posen
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