Altuzarra
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NEW YORK, February 12, 2011
By Nicole Phelps
We're coming up on the 20-year anniversary of Marc Jacobs' grunge collection, the one that got him fired from Perry Ellis before it turned him into an icon. At Joseph Altuzarra's persuasive Fall show tonight, the plaid dresses with the fraying edges, the slouchy brown cardigan, and the army parkas of the first few looks seemed like flashbacks to that seminal moment. But Jacobs wasn't the only nineties darling to influence Altuzarra this season. There were shades of John Galliano in the bias-cut silk slipdresses cinched with D-rings. "It started with the idea of not having to think so much about clothes," the designer said backstage, and it's true—this was a 180 from the daring cone-busted sheaths and hyper-precise tailoring of his last collection. "I wanted something longer and looser, something sensual and feminine, but utilitarian at the same time," he said. The pictures that inspired him: old photos of Kate Moss wearing parkas over her evening dresses, in the days when her accessory of choice was Johnny Depp.Altuzarra's preoccupation with the nineties puts him smack in the middle of things in these early days of the Fall 2011 season. And his interest in coats—there was one great example after another, from those parkas with their furry hoods to tailored tweed trenches to a bomber/cape hybrid that had people flashing back to his pal Alexander Wang's equally outerwear-focused show a few hours before—will make him very popular with retailers. All that and a pair of showstopping T-shirt dresses dripping in metal fringe and beads, to boot. Girls are going to be thinking quite hard indeed about how to get these clothes into their closets.
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Fall 2011 Ready-to-Wear
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Edun Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio de la Morena Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Farah Angsana Fashion East Felder Felder Felipe Oliveira Baptista Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio Frank Tell -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gap Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Armour Gregory Parkinson G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Hakaan Halston Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland -
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Iceberg Imitation of Christ Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Karen Walker Kelly Wearstler Kenzo Kevork Kiledjian Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lanvin Lela Rose Libertine Limi Feu Loewe Louise Gray Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luisa Beccaria Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan NAHM Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Neil Barrett Nicholas K Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci No. 21 Norma Kamali -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
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Paul & Joe Paul Smith Pedro Lourenço Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Philosophy Piazza Sempione Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Sacai Sachin + Babi Salvatore Ferragamo Sass & Bide Sharon Wauchob Sonia Rykiel Sophie Theallet Sportmax St. John Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Steven Alan Suno -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vanessa Bruno Vena Cava Vera Wang Véronique Leroy Versace Versus Victoria Beckham Viktor & Rolf Vionnet Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Wayne Wes Gordon Willow -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo Z Spoke by Zac Posen
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