Antonio Marras
post a comment ›
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
MILAN, February 25, 2011
By Tim Blanks
The relationship between an Italian man and his mother is the stuff of legend. In Sardinia, where Antonio Marras was born and still lives, it's at its most intense. Beyond blood, Mamma is roots—where you belong. In basing his new collection on his mother Nannina, Marras won himself a whole lot of creative brownie points. Passion, commitment, and memory provided three powerful cornerstones.Marras is the middle child of five. Maybe the fact that he looked up to his mother so much accounted for the lean, elongated silhouette, with the models perched on high, thick heels. The shape also chimed with the forties feel, the era when Nannina was at her most beautiful. So skirts fell to mid-calf, there was a strong emphasis on the waist, and the models wore seamed silk stockings. The bright red lips and hair pulled back into a loose bun were also borrowed from Nannina's look. And the floral dress she wore the day she took her son to the movies for the first time was refracted through the roses and poppies that were printed on silk skirts and tops.
But her influence on the collection was even more fundamental. Nannina used to work with a seamstress to remodel vintage menswear for herself. That's a habit her son has turned into a career. Here, a man's jacket in houndstooth or herringbone had been dissected and put back together again on the base of another jacket, its pockets trimmed with marabou, its torso decorated with jet embroidery. This is the esoteric luxury of Antonio Marras, and in that same spirit a peacoat sported an astrakhan collar, while a full-length double-breasted officer's coat was turned into a floor-sweeping gown. The designer has his own kind of alchemy—he turned a pair of sailor pants into a floor-length skirt.
At the end of the show, the huge backdrop of Nannina's image splintered to reveal 38 models in deconstructed and reconstructed black slips with a man's white collar at their throats. Mamma and Pappa Marras reunited on their son's catwalk—it was yet another fashion moment, courtesy of Milan's hidden treasure.
/
/
/
COMMENTS
(0) ADD YOURSwelcome !
logout
you must be logged in to leave a comment sign in | join now
see all designers ›
Fall 2011 Ready-to-Wear
#
|
A
|
B
|
C
|
D
|
E
|
F
|
G
|
H
|
I
|
J
|
K
|
L
|
M
|
N
|
O
|
P
|
R
|
S
|
T
|
U
|
V
|
W
|
Y
|
Z
|
-
#
3.1 Phillip Lim -
A
-
B
-
C
-
D
-
E
Edun Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio de la Morena Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
F
Farah Angsana Fashion East Felder Felder Felipe Oliveira Baptista Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio Frank Tell -
G
Gabriele Colangelo Gap Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Armour Gregory Parkinson G-Star Gucci -
H
Haider Ackermann Hakaan Halston Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland -
I
Iceberg Imitation of Christ Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
J
-
K
Karen Walker Kelly Wearstler Kenzo Kevork Kiledjian Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini -
L
L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lanvin Lela Rose Libertine Limi Feu Loewe Louise Gray Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luisa Beccaria Lyn Devon -
M
-
N
Naeem Khan NAHM Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Neil Barrett Nicholas K Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci No. 21 Norma Kamali -
O
Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
P
Paul & Joe Paul Smith Pedro Lourenço Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Philosophy Piazza Sempione Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
R
-
S
Sacai Sachin + Babi Salvatore Ferragamo Sass & Bide Sharon Wauchob Sonia Rykiel Sophie Theallet Sportmax St. John Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Steven Alan Suno -
T
-
U
Undercover United Bamboo -
V
Valentino Vanessa Bruno Vena Cava Vera Wang Véronique Leroy Versace Versus Victoria Beckham Viktor & Rolf Vionnet Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
W
Wayne Wes Gordon Willow -
Y
Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
Z
Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo Z Spoke by Zac Posen
ERROR:
