February 26, 2011 Milan
Cleaving to their sixties moment, Aquilano and Rimondi took inspiration from Piet Mondrian. You're right, Mondrian was not of that particular decade, but Yves Saint Laurent used the artist's signature geometric style to create one of the most iconic dresses of the sixties, and it was presumably that resonance that the young Italians were drawing on. Lines of gold crystals picked out Mondrian's grid patterns. So did stripes of net. A more direct reference to the sixties could be found in the dropped waists and the easy shift shapes, but they were fabricated in such a way that ease was co-opted by more of those extravagant fabric treatments. Like the needle-punching that seamlessly collaged fur, satin, and wool in one coat.
Zucchero wailing "I love you so much" on the soundtrack sounded so much more anguished in the original Italian. But if he could do with a little lightening up, that only meant his sound was entirely appropriate for Aquilano and Rimondi. They, too, could let a little sunshine into their obsession—the sunshine, perhaps, of this collection's most winning item, a golden yellow coat that was stunning in its gilt-free simplicity.