Vanessa Seward's formula at Azzaro is tried and true. Make it short and sexy, and sprinkle liberally with strass. A cheeky black "tuxedo peacoat" with a big bow planted on the hem in the back, and a minidress with tiers of white ruffles edged in black—a number, Seward said, made in the image of sixties French pop star Sylvie Vartan—were both charmers. The color palette was almost exclusively black and white, which made a cape-back party dress in crystal-embroidered silver and gold lace stand out all the more.

The other bit of welcome news here: evening jumpsuits. Seward included a handful in her presentation, and they ranged from sporty (contrast-trim Peter Pan collar, buttons at the ankles) to saucy. Transparency was an undercurrent, and an all-in-one was inset from hem to shoulder with peekaboo lace. The only thing missing? Gowns. Curious, that. Seward has been on a roll lately, dressing the expectant Natalie Portman for her SAG Awards win (no, the dress wasn't adjusted, Portman's a petite mom-to-be). It would've been a kick to see some of that red-carpet magic in Seward's showroom today.