Basso & Brooke
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REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
LONDON, February 21, 2011
By Meenal Mistry
By virtue of the baseline maximalist nature of their digital prints, you'd never classify Bruno Basso and Christopher Brooke's work as minimal. But today's collection had a real kind of serenity. Brooke stripped silhouettes of nearly every bit of excess detail. Nearly. The pin-sharp tailored lines of coats were softened here and there into a puffed shoulder or the languid elegance of a draped shawl lapel. Even as the shape loosened up into more feminine jersey dresses and turtlenecks tucked into long skirts, there was still a precision.Aside from those long jackets and matching trousers, and a turtlenecked gown with a retro seventies clunk, the collection had an immediate commercial appeal. Within the intimate setting of the Portico Rooms, you could see how it would wow the kind of ladies who actually spend money on expensive clothes.
That brings us to the beautiful prints, which in the simplest terms were inspired by camouflage. The best of them had a depth you could absolutely get lost in. Basso, the printmaking half of the duo, took his cues from the avian world, the painter Gerhard Richter, and even the beauty of an ancient disintegrating wall. The show notes also invoked Veruschka's work with makeup artist Holger Trülzsch in the book Trans-figurations, where she's made up to blend into old doors and moss, and quoted Susan Sontag's intro about the conflicting desires of wanting to be seen but also to hide and blend in. It seems pretentious at first, but then you realize that's exactly what you should get from great fashion. Here you found some options to fit the bill.
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Fall 2011 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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Edun Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio de la Morena Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Farah Angsana Fashion East Felder Felder Felipe Oliveira Baptista Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio Frank Tell -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gap Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Armour Gregory Parkinson G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Hakaan Halston Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland -
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Iceberg Imitation of Christ Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Karen Walker Kelly Wearstler Kenzo Kevork Kiledjian Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lanvin Lela Rose Libertine Limi Feu Loewe Louise Gray Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luisa Beccaria Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan NAHM Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Neil Barrett Nicholas K Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci No. 21 Norma Kamali -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
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Paul & Joe Paul Smith Pedro Lourenço Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Philosophy Piazza Sempione Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Sacai Sachin + Babi Salvatore Ferragamo Sass & Bide Sharon Wauchob Sonia Rykiel Sophie Theallet Sportmax St. John Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Steven Alan Suno -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vanessa Bruno Vena Cava Vera Wang Véronique Leroy Versace Versus Victoria Beckham Viktor & Rolf Vionnet Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Wayne Wes Gordon Willow -
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Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo Z Spoke by Zac Posen
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