Barbara Bui
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REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
PARIS, March 3, 2011
By Meenal Mistry
You might be sick of reading the fashion term "urban warrior" (we are), but the fact remains that, come winter, women are instinctively drawn to a way of dressing that's sleekly under the radar and yet slightly tough, practical, and protective. Certainly a commercially minded powerhouse like Barbara Bui knows this, and while her show today didn't break any new ground, she did a fine job of interpreting that tendency her way.To start, there were voluminous, high-collared aviator coats—right on trend, pieced together in shearling, mohair, patent leather, puffed nylon, and bouclé—over slick, asparagus-skinny pants. From start to finish, the outerwear was what made the headlines here. There were great motorcycle jackets with zip-off fur hems that created a nice skirt effect. And Bui certainly saved the best for last in a series of tight-shouldered shearlings neatly delineated with bouclé bands and a cool, ombré metallic finish. But a girl, warrior or not, cannot live by coat alone. (Though a drop-dead chic one can score you a lot of mileage.) There was, curiously, an evening slant to much of Bui's indoors-wear. Maybe with a preponderance of black clothes, a leap to black-tie gear seems logical? Still, something like her great draped, buttery-looking leather tunic and pair of black pants might be almost as clever an investment.
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