The show opened with sporty coats and aerodynamic knitwear—ribbed turtlenecks and wrap minis, A-line dresses, and tunics over flared pants, all in shades of camel, black, and navy. Had we come to the right place? Was this really Anna Molinari's Blumarine? The rocker-chick studs, hyped-up colors, and saucy prints of recent seasons had been replaced by something altogether sensible. In fact, despite the leggy silhouettes, it was almost staid. Right up until look 20 or so, that is, when a slew of models emerged en masse in the same simple, streamlined shapes, but this time in Crayola brights. Twenty exits in monochrome yellow, orange, green, purple, or blue later, and designer Molinari changed gears again. This time she repeated things in see-through black lace. And guess what happened next? Yes, you guessed it, primary-colored lace.

One editor quipped, "Bring back the leopard prints," referring to Spring's wild collection. To be fair, there were some smart pieces here, especially the spongy rubberized nubuck coats. But the show felt too long for the straight-up sportswear Blumarine was pushing this season.