Bodkin
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REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, February 15, 2011
By Maya Singer
Bodkin designer Eviana Hartman showed a polished, wearable collection at her first-ever fashion week presentation this evening. Bodkin has earned plaudits for its commitment to sustainability, and when pressed, Hartman can catalog the eco pros and cons of each of her fabrics, and talk at length about her sourcing of materials and her production process. It's to her credit, though, that you can't read any of the green into the clothes: As a designer, Hartman has always specialized in an aesthetic that's clean, easy-feeling, and urbane. Her Fall collection was more of the same, in a good way.The news this time out was Bodkin's sweaters, launched here. These included felted wool cable knits and a variety of marled cashmere blends, all of which fit seamlessly into the line. The other story was texture: Hartman, who was inspired by the Clyfford Still painting (1951-1952), worked to give each of her materials a distinctive tactile quality, often subtle. To wit, a pair of tapered sweats in double-faced organic cotton jersey, which had a built-in rumple, and a wool jersey dress with knit-in peaks. Elsewhere, raw edges and seaming details provided the textural element. Everything was versatile and functional. And Hartman is particularly good at fusing the formal and casual—take the collarless car coat, made out of organic cotton sherpa. "It's kind of like a tailored version of the Patagonia fleece I wore in college," she noted. That emphasis on texture, and on using materials with a sense of warmth, is one of the most winning aspects of Bodkin. Hartman put it well: "It's like a kinder, gentler cool."
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Fall 2011 Ready-to-Wear
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Edun Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio de la Morena Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Farah Angsana Fashion East Felder Felder Felipe Oliveira Baptista Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio Frank Tell -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gap Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Armour Gregory Parkinson G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Hakaan Halston Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland -
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Iceberg Imitation of Christ Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Karen Walker Kelly Wearstler Kenzo Kevork Kiledjian Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lanvin Lela Rose Libertine Limi Feu Loewe Louise Gray Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luisa Beccaria Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan NAHM Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Neil Barrett Nicholas K Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci No. 21 Norma Kamali -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
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Paul & Joe Paul Smith Pedro Lourenço Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Philosophy Piazza Sempione Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Sacai Sachin + Babi Salvatore Ferragamo Sass & Bide Sharon Wauchob Sonia Rykiel Sophie Theallet Sportmax St. John Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Steven Alan Suno -
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Valentino Vanessa Bruno Vena Cava Vera Wang Véronique Leroy Versace Versus Victoria Beckham Viktor & Rolf Vionnet Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Wayne Wes Gordon Willow -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo Z Spoke by Zac Posen
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