February 14, 2011 New York
The news this time out was Bodkin's sweaters, launched here. These included felted wool cable knits and a variety of marled cashmere blends, all of which fit seamlessly into the line. The other story was texture: Hartman, who was inspired by the Clyfford Still painting (1951-1952), worked to give each of her materials a distinctive tactile quality, often subtle. To wit, a pair of tapered sweats in double-faced organic cotton jersey, which had a built-in rumple, and a wool jersey dress with knit-in peaks. Elsewhere, raw edges and seaming details provided the textural element. Everything was versatile and functional. And Hartman is particularly good at fusing the formal and casual—take the collarless car coat, made out of organic cotton sherpa. "It's kind of like a tailored version of the Patagonia fleece I wore in college," she noted. That emphasis on texture, and on using materials with a sense of warmth, is one of the most winning aspects of Bodkin. Hartman put it well: "It's like a kinder, gentler cool."