Brioni
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REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
MILAN, February 27, 2011
By Nicole Phelps
Diana Ross' disco hit "Upside Down" is a lot to take at 11:30 on a Sunday morning. You could sense it sapping the audience's goodwill toward Alessandro Dell'Acqua and his second outing for Brioni well before the third chorus came round. Backstage, the designer said he took Ross and Florinda Bolkan as muses, the chanteuse providing the glam and the Brazilian actress the sophistication. Good thing the clothes weren't as literal as the music.Dell'Acqua has been tasked with broadening Brioni's customer base, enticing the kind of client who pays attention to the trends but isn't beholden to them. For Fall, he's giving her color: bright fuchsia pants in the tapering, cropped cut of the season, worn under a camel coat belted with a thin gold chain; or a royal purple satin dress bustled in the back and topped by a black cardigan. He's giving her fur and exotic skins; together, the cropped fox jacket and toffee-colored matte crocodile skirt were the definition of Brioni luxe. In between, there were more understated offerings. Both a long-sleeved, fitted black dress with a peephole in the back and a camel cashmere tunic with matching cuffed trousers had subtle appeal. But luxury is about the complete package. Next season's mission will be upgrading the little details like the soundtrack, the venue, etc. that are so vital to the overall message.
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Fall 2011 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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Edun Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio de la Morena Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Farah Angsana Fashion East Felder Felder Felipe Oliveira Baptista Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio Frank Tell -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gap Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Armour Gregory Parkinson G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Hakaan Halston Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland -
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Iceberg Imitation of Christ Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Karen Walker Kelly Wearstler Kenzo Kevork Kiledjian Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lanvin Lela Rose Libertine Limi Feu Loewe Louise Gray Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luisa Beccaria Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan NAHM Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Neil Barrett Nicholas K Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci No. 21 Norma Kamali -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
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Paul & Joe Paul Smith Pedro Lourenço Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Philosophy Piazza Sempione Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Sacai Sachin + Babi Salvatore Ferragamo Sass & Bide Sharon Wauchob Sonia Rykiel Sophie Theallet Sportmax St. John Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Steven Alan Suno -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vanessa Bruno Vena Cava Vera Wang Véronique Leroy Versace Versus Victoria Beckham Viktor & Rolf Vionnet Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Wayne Wes Gordon Willow -
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Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo Z Spoke by Zac Posen
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