Calvin Klein Collection Fall 2011 Ready-to-Wear Collection on Style.com: Runway Review

Calvin Klein Collection

NEW YORK, February 17, 2011

By Nicole Phelps

Francisco Costa has been caught by the fuzz. Whereas last season was all about line, and a comparatively languid one at that, the story at Calvin Klein Collection for Fall was texture. To ensure that the focus was on the fabrics, the Brazilian-born creative director zeroed in on a few uncomplicated, graphic silhouettes: above-the-knee shift dresses, baseball jackets, short A-line skirts, and coats, some of them pumped up with away-from-the-body volumes. Out first was a slate gray alpaca and cashmere jacquard topper with a deep, rich pile. A hooded shearling with a papery finish likewise looked like it could stand up to the kind of winter we've had. In fact, it was so stiff that if you took it off, it might just walk away on its own. Equally substantial, but with a more supple appeal, was a pantsuit in shiny black calf hair.

On the other side of the spectrum, sleeveless dresses came whipped up from a weightless silk jacquard laser-cut into tiny frills. From a distance the surfaces seemed to be embroidered with feathers, an embellishment you're as likely to see on the Calvin runway as, oh, gold bullion. Other New York designers this week have been moving away from the American sportswear that has defined the last couple of seasons, but minimalism remains Costa's thing. The most compelling examples here: a pair of white dresses inset with geometric panels of leather at the shoulders. They may have been spare, but they weren't plain.

See all from Calvin Klein Collection › Timeline

A.F. Vandevorst	Acne	ADAM
A Détacher	Akris	Alberta Ferretti
Albino	Alexander McQueen	Alexander Wang
Alexandre Herchcovitch	Alexis Mabille	Alice + Olivia
Altuzarra	Andrew Gn	Anna Sui
Ann Demeulemeester	Anne Valérie Hash	Ann-Sofie Back Atelje
Anthony Vaccarello	Antonio Berardi	Antonio Marras
Aquascutum	Aquilano.Rimondi	Araks
Azzaro

Badgley Mischka	Balenciaga	Bally
Balmain	Banana Republic	Band of Outsiders
Barbara Bui	Barbara Tfank	Basso & Brooke
BCBG Max Azria	Behnaz Sarafpour	Bensoni
Betsey Johnson	Betty Jackson	Bibhu Mohapatra
Bill Blass	Blumarine	Bodkin
Bottega Veneta	Brioni	Burberry Prorsum

Cacharel	Calvin Klein Collection	Carlos Miele
Carolina Herrera	Carven	Celine
Central Saint Martins	Chado Ralph Rucci	Chadwick Bell
Chalayan	Chanel	Charles Anastase
Charlotte Ronson	Chloé	Chris Benz
Christian Cota	Christian Dior	Christian Siriano
Christophe Lemaire	Christopher Kane	Christopher Raeburn
Clements Ribeiro	Collette Dinnigan	Comme des Garçons
Commuun	Costello Tagliapietra	Costume National
Creatures of the Wind	Cushnie et Ochs	Custo Barcelona
Cynthia Rowley	Cynthia Steffe

D&G	Damir Doma	Danielle Scutt
Daryl K	David Koma	Dax Gabler
Dennis Basso	Derek Lam	Diane von Furstenberg
Diesel Black Gold	DKNY	Dolce & Gabbana
Donna Karan	Doo.Ri	Douglas Hannant
Dries Van Noten	Dsquared²	Duro Olowu

Edun	Elie Saab	Elie Tahari
Elise Øverland	Emanuel Ungaro	Emilio de la Morena
Emilio Pucci	Emporio Armani	Erdem
Erin Fetherston	Etro