Francisco Costa has been caught by the fuzz. Whereas last season was all about line, and a comparatively languid one at that, the story at Calvin Klein Collection for Fall was texture. To ensure that the focus was on the fabrics, the Brazilian-born creative director zeroed in on a few uncomplicated, graphic silhouettes: above-the-knee shift dresses, baseball jackets, short A-line skirts, and coats, some of them pumped up with away-from-the-body volumes. Out first was a slate gray alpaca and cashmere jacquard topper with a deep, rich pile. A hooded shearling with a papery finish likewise looked like it could stand up to the kind of winter we've had. In fact, it was so stiff that if you took it off, it might just walk away on its own. Equally substantial, but with a more supple appeal, was a pantsuit in shiny black calf hair.

On the other side of the spectrum, sleeveless dresses came whipped up from a weightless silk jacquard laser-cut into tiny frills. From a distance the surfaces seemed to be embroidered with feathers, an embellishment you're as likely to see on the Calvin runway as, oh, gold bullion. Other New York designers this week have been moving away from the American sportswear that has defined the last couple of seasons, but minimalism remains Costa's thing. The most compelling examples here: a pair of white dresses inset with geometric panels of leather at the shoulders. They may have been spare, but they weren't plain.