Carlos Miele's runway show today had some of the vim and vigor of a Brazilian futebol match, and a crowd to match. To be expected: splashy gowns with vibrant patterns and elaborate embellishments. The designer delivered on that with a rose velvet halter number ruched to look braided up the front for a multidimensional feel. And his print of choice this season, which showed up on two chiffon finale dresses, was taken from blown-up digital satellite photos. But Miele explained backstage that he had also tried to go in a different direction for Fall, focusing more on eveningwear separates, like the voluminous silk "pajama" pants he paired with a striped top in juicy brights.

Miele took steps in the right direction, but it's going to take some more dressing down for him to build a younger, broader client base. His favorite piece in the collection was one of the most straightforward: a crepe jumpsuit—which came in vermilion and cream, with a low neckline and velvet sash—that looked killer worn with a duchesse hood. Of course, fur was big here as well. Miele favored fox, using it on a "natural section" short cape and a long black vest, either of which would increase the luxe factor of any outfit.