Fabric play has been a big theme this season. That means the under-the-radar Commuun collection deserves a closer look. In the hands of the label's Kaito Hori and Iku Furudate, a simple parka is an opportunity to play black against white, shiny against matte, and flat surfaces like felted wool against texturized cloques. The same goes for a sweatshirt worn with tuxedo-stripe track pants.

The designers were interested in conventionally sporty shapes made new by techno fabrics last season too, but here that formed just part of the story. The other angle Hori and Furudate worked was transparent versus opaque in stripy tunics and dresses that combined strips of sheer mesh with what could've been nubby wool or even shearling. A black version layered over a long see-through blue slip looked quite striking. Even better, though, were net and solid fabric stripes in multicolor primary brights, with the blue working back to a slim pair of pants or the black to a short jacket with a bit of swing.