February 09, 2011 New York
The show began in a Tisci-tinged dark and edgy way, with tailored jackets pieced in various textures of black over sheer skirts, before turning a corner into less-fresh-looking ladylike suits and coats. Throughout the collection, you could feel the negotiations between these opposing sides. Amid stark but chic looks like a long tulip skirt with a lean black turtleneck that had shades of Spring Jil Sander, there was a dowdy attempt at elegance in the form of a suit with a portrait collar and awkward ruffled skirt. The usual OTT gowns showed up, but were slightly subdued. One massive petal-pink ball skirt was paired with a simple gray silk tee to chic effect. And a moody-hued orchid-print organza cocktail dress with a pretty swirling drape that ended in a rosette on one shoulder was a very nice détente. Whether Siriano's show will become a hot ticket for the fashion set remains to be seen. His point of view needs to be more finely honed and distinct for that. Nevertheless, this was a step in a better direction.