Custo Dalmau's Custo Barcelona celebrates its 30th anniversary this year. That's pretty extraordinary, when you think about the relative newborn status of many of his fellow labels. But Dalmau—still at the helm, no less—is hardly an éminence grise. Some labels mellow as they age; not this one.

Dalmau titled his show Clean…But Not Really, a reference to his original intention and aesthetic at the line's founding: "We started this project on a palette of clean colors that are not usual," he explained backstage before the show. "From there, we work a lot of details into each piece to achieve a sophisticated, contemporary language at the end." Was it clean? Or even sophisticated? Not really. Layers of overgrown knits dangling hairy appendages were married to quilted silk minidresses—in some of their gone-to-seed extravagance, they almost resembled a maxi take on old Rodarte (not that you can really compare this to what the Mulleavy sisters do, of course). For men, the engorged knits—Dalmau called them "three-dimensional"—took the form of bulky sweaters, which, off the runway and on the rack, could have a punky afterlife.

This wasn't for the faint of heart. But Custo never has been. Over 30 years, Dalmau has carved himself a niche and done what he intended: created a contemporary language all his own. The house was packed with those eager to hear what he had to say.