With everyone seeming to long for a bit of nineties nostalgia, could there be a better time for that decade's downtown fashion queen Daryl Kerrigan to return to the runway?

Said runway was strewn with fallen leaves and dead branches to echo Kerrigan's main source of inspiration: a cache of digitally printed camouflage fabrics. The show opened with a camo cape over black leather leggings, partially suited to hunting and foraging for a taxi, but perhaps for something outdoorsy, too. Kerrigan also took the stuff in a more refined direction. "I love how it's working with my tailoring," she said backstage. To that end there was a smart car coat, as well as blouson jackets with lovely flared peplum backs. In fact, it was the tailoring that stood out here. And Kerrigan showed further sophistication with little touches of luxury like the smoke-hued shearling bolero vest over a white tunic or a silk wrap dress with an inset black leather belt.

Kerrigan's runway return coincides with the debut of her tightly edited collections of bags—including a terrific double-buckled satchel and an oversized tote—and an assortment of chic, low cowboy booties. "It's a very tight collection, but it's all the things I want," said the designer. "And it turns out that's what other people want, too."