Devi Kroell left her namesake company less than a year ago. She wasted no time reemerging on the fashion week scene, but anybody who went looking for a metallic python hobo left her presentation empty-handed. "No exotics," Kroell said, nixing her former trademark. Unless, that is, you count Tyrolean sheep's wool as an exotic. Dax Gabler
was her Tyrolean grandmother's maiden name, and the designer's first collection under the new label is made in her honor. Kroell's cardigans, boyfriend jackets, and trenches are knit from the wool in its natural gray, light brown, and dark brown varieties. The knits, which she describes as "true looking," are quite scratchy, so it was imperative that she focus on layer-able pieces and outerwear. The line's bags and shoes are Tyrolean in inspiration, too. The former come in saddlebag, cross-body bag, and tote styles made from leather, shearling, and stamped crocodile, and feature decorative rings on short leather straps. "Hunters used them to carry things," Kroell explained of their origins. The shoes and boots looked the most promising. Inspired by Native American moccasins, the ballet slippers and boots are flat, like the most popular styles from her former brand. Unlike her former brand, Dax Gabler accessories are made in China, so Kroell can keep the prices more reasonable. That's a smart business move. Her next task is coming up with an item that has the kind of It potential as her hobo.