Douglas Hannant gave his Fall show a Jazz Age spin—cloche hats by Eric Javits on the models, Nina Simone on the soundtrack—but, he said backstage before his show at the Plaza, "There's very little of the thirties in the clothes. If you're going with a theme, you should have a light hand." We couldn't agree more. And what does Hannant need with themes, anyway? His clients are after gowns for museum parties and smart skirtsuits to wear to fashion shows. There were plenty of both.

A short, white and black checked tweed jacket trimmed in fox accentuated the waist; paired with a black crepe skirt it was very classic, a little cool. Cooler still? A pair of leather-to-the-thigh, jersey-to-the-hip stirrup pants. They might not fly at brunch, but they'd look very chic après ski. The solid, jewel-toned satin dresses at the end of the show—in peacock and sapphire—were pretty but uninspiring. Better was the last look, a black strapless gown whose considerable skirt was embroidered with hundreds of white-bordered organza petals. It received a fair share of front-row "oohs" and "aahs."