Minimal madness infiltrated nearly every corner of the fashion world following the runaway success of Celine and its like-minded labels—but it didn't reach Sophia Kokosalaki, or Diesel. Kokosalaki's inspiration for the season, she shrugged backstage, was simply, "not to go minimal—at the moment, everyone's going minimal. You can still dress in a casual way and dress up," she said.

Trends can be hard for even principled designers to resist, but Kokosalaki knows her Diesel clientele isn't going for less-is-more. For them, she offered a bold-hued assortment of lace-up denim, thick cabled knits, and military-inspired jackets. These aren't your army-issue—or at least not recent-issue. "There's always a military influence in Diesel's DNA," the designer explained. "I just tried to release it with other references." That meant drawing on the uniforms of the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries—the sort that soldiers of the British Empire might've worn, cropped in front with long tails dangling behind. (The guys got a sort of cavalry riding pant in denim, too, low and loose through the leg, but tapering to button at the cuff.)

But it's not just for queen and country; the Diesel DNA is encoded with a bit of rock 'n' roll, too. That must account for some of the lapels, borrowed from biker jackets, not to mention the python-printed leather pants and exaggerated bell-bottoms any late-seventies band aid would love.