Diesel Black Gold
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REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, February 15, 2011
By Matthew Schneier
Minimal madness infiltrated nearly every corner of the fashion world following the runaway success of Celine and its like-minded labels—but it didn't reach Sophia Kokosalaki, or Diesel. Kokosalaki's inspiration for the season, she shrugged backstage, was simply, "not to go minimal—at the moment, everyone's going minimal. You can still dress in a casual way and dress up," she said.Trends can be hard for even principled designers to resist, but Kokosalaki knows her Diesel clientele isn't going for less-is-more. For them, she offered a bold-hued assortment of lace-up denim, thick cabled knits, and military-inspired jackets. These aren't your army-issue—or at least not recent-issue. "There's always a military influence in Diesel's DNA," the designer explained. "I just tried to release it with other references." That meant drawing on the uniforms of the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries—the sort that soldiers of the British Empire might've worn, cropped in front with long tails dangling behind. (The guys got a sort of cavalry riding pant in denim, too, low and loose through the leg, but tapering to button at the cuff.)
But it's not just for queen and country; the Diesel DNA is encoded with a bit of rock 'n' roll, too. That must account for some of the lapels, borrowed from biker jackets, not to mention the python-printed leather pants and exaggerated bell-bottoms any late-seventies band aid would love.
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Fall 2011 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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Edun Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio de la Morena Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Farah Angsana Fashion East Felder Felder Felipe Oliveira Baptista Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio Frank Tell -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gap Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Armour Gregory Parkinson G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Hakaan Halston Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland -
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Iceberg Imitation of Christ Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Karen Walker Kelly Wearstler Kenzo Kevork Kiledjian Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lanvin Lela Rose Libertine Limi Feu Loewe Louise Gray Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luisa Beccaria Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan NAHM Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Neil Barrett Nicholas K Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci No. 21 Norma Kamali -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
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Paul & Joe Paul Smith Pedro Lourenço Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Philosophy Piazza Sempione Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Sacai Sachin + Babi Salvatore Ferragamo Sass & Bide Sharon Wauchob Sonia Rykiel Sophie Theallet Sportmax St. John Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Steven Alan Suno -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vanessa Bruno Vena Cava Vera Wang Véronique Leroy Versace Versus Victoria Beckham Viktor & Rolf Vionnet Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Wayne Wes Gordon Willow -
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Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo Z Spoke by Zac Posen
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