Elise Øverland
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REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, February 12, 2011
By Maya Singer
At a certain point in Elise Øverland's show tonight—her show on skates, at the Standard hotel's ice rink—a few doubts began to creep in. Maybe, just maybe, Øverland isn't crazy. Or if she is crazy, maybe she's crazy like a fox. What at first seemed like an eruption of cool pastels, Plasticine textures, feathers, and fur took on a kind of weird logic as the figure skaters from the Ice Theatre of New York twirled around the models standing center rink. Take, for example, the quilted coat in a viscous print, lacquered over with sheen—at first, that coat seemed absurd. And then, under the klieg lights that reflected off the ice, it became oddly alluring. Why can't daily life be as theatrical as a dance on skates? Must everyone wear lovely peacoats and shearling-trimmed motorcycle jackets? Isn't it nice to think there's someone out there—maybe a few people, even—who pines to look a little bit strange? There's bound to be a customer, too, for Øverland's fanciful violet and sea green fluffy fur, and for her tailored leather jacket, with its wink of peplum and glossy pebbles of mottled turquoise fabric.It's pointless to analyze this show based on trends; this was a collection made for people who stand outside time and inside their own very particular taste. Chances are, no other designer this season is going to use Øverland's bubblegum palette, which she developed especially because it looked good against ice. Chances are, no other designer this season is going to stage a show on an ice rink. This collection was insistently well-wrought, and perfectly mad. Right around the time Johnny Weir took to the rink for a virtuoso solo, you had to figure: Øverland likes things this way.
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Fall 2011 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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Edun Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio de la Morena Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Farah Angsana Fashion East Felder Felder Felipe Oliveira Baptista Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio Frank Tell -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gap Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Armour Gregory Parkinson G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Hakaan Halston Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland -
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Iceberg Imitation of Christ Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Karen Walker Kelly Wearstler Kenzo Kevork Kiledjian Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lanvin Lela Rose Libertine Limi Feu Loewe Louise Gray Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luisa Beccaria Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan NAHM Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Neil Barrett Nicholas K Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci No. 21 Norma Kamali -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
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Paul & Joe Paul Smith Pedro Lourenço Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Philosophy Piazza Sempione Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Sacai Sachin + Babi Salvatore Ferragamo Sass & Bide Sharon Wauchob Sonia Rykiel Sophie Theallet Sportmax St. John Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Steven Alan Suno -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vanessa Bruno Vena Cava Vera Wang Véronique Leroy Versace Versus Victoria Beckham Viktor & Rolf Vionnet Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Wayne Wes Gordon Willow -
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Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo Z Spoke by Zac Posen
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