Elie Saab
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REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
PARIS, March 9, 2011
By Nicole Phelps
Here's a sample sequence from Elie Saab's show: plum crepe belted slim dress, plum crepe belted dress with A-line skirt, plum crepe A-line dress with inverted pleat. The Lebanese designer makes perfectly fine clothes, but his insistence on turning his runway presentation into a catalog shoot dilutes his message. If Miuccia Prada doesn't need 50 looks to make her point, then there's no way Saab should.This season, his message is Parisian, specifically Belle de Jour. The designer doesn't do retro, so there was only a faint whiff of the sixties, a decade that has proved so popular elsewhere. Black and buff predominated, but there was also gray, dark red, and an abstract multicolor print, and the silhouette was close to the body. Saab worked his way through all sorts of dresses in each of those colors; still the evening gowns are what celebrity stylists will be paying attention to. They didn't have much to do with Buñuel and Deneuve, but Karlie Kloss' buff sleeveless number and Anja Rubik's long-sleeve black sparkler were the hits here.
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Fall 2011 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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Edun Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio de la Morena Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Farah Angsana Fashion East Felder Felder Felipe Oliveira Baptista Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio Frank Tell -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gap Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Armour Gregory Parkinson G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Hakaan Halston Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland -
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Iceberg Imitation of Christ Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Karen Walker Kelly Wearstler Kenzo Kevork Kiledjian Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lanvin Lela Rose Libertine Limi Feu Loewe Louise Gray Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luisa Beccaria Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan NAHM Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Neil Barrett Nicholas K Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci No. 21 Norma Kamali -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
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Paul & Joe Paul Smith Pedro Lourenço Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Philosophy Piazza Sempione Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Sacai Sachin + Babi Salvatore Ferragamo Sass & Bide Sharon Wauchob Sonia Rykiel Sophie Theallet Sportmax St. John Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Steven Alan Suno -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vanessa Bruno Vena Cava Vera Wang Véronique Leroy Versace Versus Victoria Beckham Viktor & Rolf Vionnet Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Wayne Wes Gordon Willow -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo Z Spoke by Zac Posen
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