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REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
MILAN, February 25, 2011
By Tim Blanks
If there was a method in Veronica Etro's madness, it wasn't immediately apparent in the pell-mell tone of a presentation that breezed from barbarism to futurism in the blink of an eye. If ever there was a show with a split personality, this was it. But sometimes that means double the fun, and that was the case here, if you were inclined to put a charitable spin on the chaos. The first outfit was an appropriate appetizer: A tartan-bodied coat sported metallic leather sleeves, a heavily embroidered placket, and a curly lambswool collar. Minutes later, a classically draped, one-shouldered gown in a mosaic pattern was followed by a substantial forties-style overcoat, then a psychedelic-ized paisley blouson and matching skirt. A key fabric of the collection was something called nylon Lurex, which flowed like liquid around the body. It made an intense golden evening dress look like a hostess gown from ancient Abyssinia, especially with the substantial earrings sported by Abbey Lee Kershaw. This was, by the way, a good thing.The collection was random enough to turn anyone into a fashion editor. Take this, leave that. So baggy tartan pants looked fine with a lacquered leather biker, but the pairing of the same pants in tweed with an ethnic gold-coin-covered coat was too jarring to work. Still, could randomness even be invoked as a criticism when Etro's combinations were so deliberately wayward? They took on their own feverish life, so much so that the hectic patterning began to look like Rorschach blots. Then along came a gorgeous ivory coat-dress, shading from black and white paisley to rich color. Or a simple black gown, artfully, classically wrapped. File this one in the too-much-is-never-enough folder.
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Fall 2011 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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Edun Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio de la Morena Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Farah Angsana Fashion East Felder Felder Felipe Oliveira Baptista Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio Frank Tell -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gap Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Armour Gregory Parkinson G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Hakaan Halston Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland -
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Iceberg Imitation of Christ Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Karen Walker Kelly Wearstler Kenzo Kevork Kiledjian Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lanvin Lela Rose Libertine Limi Feu Loewe Louise Gray Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luisa Beccaria Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan NAHM Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Neil Barrett Nicholas K Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci No. 21 Norma Kamali -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
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Paul & Joe Paul Smith Pedro Lourenço Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Philosophy Piazza Sempione Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Sacai Sachin + Babi Salvatore Ferragamo Sass & Bide Sharon Wauchob Sonia Rykiel Sophie Theallet Sportmax St. John Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Steven Alan Suno -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vanessa Bruno Vena Cava Vera Wang Véronique Leroy Versace Versus Victoria Beckham Viktor & Rolf Vionnet Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Wayne Wes Gordon Willow -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo Z Spoke by Zac Posen
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