The woman who leaves her house wearing Felder Felder's Fall silver leather, crystal-embroidered minidress is expecting some attention. Ditto the girl whose winter coat is the British label's white wool number, with its heaps of Mongolian lamb fur. Sisters Dani and Annette Felder are expanding the borders of their line beyond the rock-chick looks they've been known for, but they're still designing for the customer for whom all the world's a stage.

The big new ideas this season were print and that floral crystal embroidery. It was refreshing to see color on the Felder Felder runway, and printed looks like tank-top minidressses with short dirndl skirts were uncharacteristically sweet. The sisters also used prints on their standby pieces, ultra-lean leggings and cropped biker jackets, and the graphic effect somewhat ameliorated the feeling that those silhouettes are passing their sell-by dates. If the crystal was overused, both in individual pieces and in the collection as a whole, the Felders' use of goat hair had intelligence and specificity. On a couple of pencil dresses, one printed and one black, the fur appeared as a kind of floating sleeve. That was a nice, subtly glamorous touch. Elsewhere, the designers seemed to be struggling with how to accommodate softer shapes to their sexy aesthetic, with decently commercial if hardly groundbreaking results. (See their bias-cut slipdresses.) All in all, this read like a "work-in-progress" collection: The Felder Felder sisters are clearly aiming to stretch themselves, but will need to continue to push further next time.