Felipe Oliveira Baptista
March 01, 2011 Paris
Scarf-wrapped heads and fur hats notwithstanding, the overall sensibility seemed to owe a bit to the minimalism so prevalent last Fall—cue the wide, mannish trousers and smart coats. Baptista in fact scored high on his outerwear here. Most of the fashion flock got to know him with his Spring collection, following the announcement that he would be taking Christophe Lemaire's creative director post at Lacoste. It's comforting to know, then, that he can address cold-weather needs by tailoring an excellent coat, like the ones with cutaway silhouettes. One great idea was a fur-lined hood that when thrown back created a sort of beautiful and dramatic ruff. Curiously, given that he had explored some interesting ideas in his dresses for Spring, today's little black mini versions with panels of sequins were this collection's weakest point. A better evening option: the chiffon sweatshirt with tiny rippling petals, which was paired with skinny blue velvet pants.
One caveat: There didn't seem to be much of a continuous vein in Baptista's work from last season to this. You get the sense that he's trying things on for size. Perhaps working on his debut for Lacoste, set for September 10, 2011, will help bring his own work into sharper focus.