With barely a handful of collections behind him,
already has a signature piece. His multi-yarn knits reappear and evolve each season, and they are showstoppers. This season's varieties were made with ten kinds of yarn apiece and can be draped and worn across the body in as many ways as the user imagines, but Tell may have upstaged them for Fall. Enter the motorcycle jacket. "This is my first time using alligator," the designer said backstage of the skin that made up his bombers. "I love it." Bonded in cashmere and trimmed with fox, the jackets came cropped above the navel and had a raw, unfinished hem. "I wanted things to be shredded in a beautiful way," Tell explained. He also experimented seriously with fur for the first time. The result was a rich, deep counter to the organic, handicraft look of his knits and the collection's general air of deshabillé. With the addition of jewelry this season, there may have been too much going on in Tell's already multilayered looks, but stripped to parts, there are several beautiful and unusual garments here worth exploring.