Giles
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LONDON, February 21, 2011
By Tim Blanks
Giles Deacon's invitation was an exact facsimile of an official summons to appear in court, which caused tremors for a few invitees when they pried it from its equally official-looking envelope.A talent to disconcert has long been a Giles trait. There's something about his approach to his design work that is unabashedly—and often darkly—fetishistic. That means this would seem to be his time, because for Fall, his peers have also been plumbing depths of shadowy sexuality. Sure enough, Deacon delivered his most accomplished collection to date. Not for the first time this season did the words "restraint and release" come to mind. The look that expressed it best was a governess-y white blouse gathered by wasp-waisted black corseting that barely controlled an eruption of shaggy champagne-toned goat fur. A white bow in the hair, black peep-toe booties on the feet, and the ensemble was complete. Specialist appeal? Why, yes, especially for readers of top-shelf magazines, but the intense discipline of the look also translated into a passage of slickly sophisticated suits.
The high necks and elongated lines reflected the time Deacon spent researching Victoriana and Edwardiana in the Victoria and Albert Museum. When the collection took a breather from black and white, it exploded into psychedelic-ized William Morris, based on tiles made by Morris' ceramist William de Morgan. And Deacon's key print was also from the nineteenth century. Delaroche's painting The Execution of Lady Jane Grey depicts the young queen blindfolded, corseted, about to lose her head to a hulking brute with a big ax. Martyred innocence is scarcely Deacon's default position, so it was surely the emotional extremity of the image that fit with the designer's big picture.
He populated that picture with women as fierce and worldly as dominatrices, parading by like exotic birds of prey in clouds of stripped black peacock feathers and swaths of wild pagan fur. Do such creatures even exist? For perhaps the first time in Deacon's career, it just about seemed possible.
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Fall 2011 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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Edun Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio de la Morena Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Farah Angsana Fashion East Felder Felder Felipe Oliveira Baptista Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio Frank Tell -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gap Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Armour Gregory Parkinson G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Hakaan Halston Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland -
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Iceberg Imitation of Christ Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Karen Walker Kelly Wearstler Kenzo Kevork Kiledjian Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lanvin Lela Rose Libertine Limi Feu Loewe Louise Gray Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luisa Beccaria Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan NAHM Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Neil Barrett Nicholas K Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci No. 21 Norma Kamali -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
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Paul & Joe Paul Smith Pedro Lourenço Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Philosophy Piazza Sempione Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Sacai Sachin + Babi Salvatore Ferragamo Sass & Bide Sharon Wauchob Sonia Rykiel Sophie Theallet Sportmax St. John Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Steven Alan Suno -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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Wayne Wes Gordon Willow -
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Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo Z Spoke by Zac Posen
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