Gary Graham
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REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, February 9, 2011
By Alison Baenen
"I could have gotten really serious with it, but I wanted this to be playful," Gary Graham said at Wednesday night's presentation in his Tribeca studio and boutique. Known for his cerebral backstories and research-heavy inspirations, Graham's work has always had a certain sobriety. It was a welcome change, then, to find a youthful frivolity in the styling of his latest collection and a definite lightness to the clothes. Done up in jet-black Joan Jett mullets and adorned with safety-pin necklaces, primary-colored Converse, and slouchy sport socks, Graham's models were bound for St. Mark's Place circa 1982, ready to raid the nearest record store.Despite the lightened-up tone, this collection was as rich with fieldwork as past outings. Graham worked a classic mythology vibe, referencing Joseph Campbell's The Hero with a Thousand Faces and calling upon archetypal figures like the shepherd and the orphan to inflect his work. Sounds heavy, but the shepherd influence looked compelling in a long alpaca knit vest and fetching in a fitted brown and maroon blanket dress worn over a pair of indigo batik-print leggings. That batik print was one of the strongest in a collection full of them, all thrown together and layered willy-nilly. Like much of what was on display here, that mix felt fresh.
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Fall 2011 Ready-to-Wear
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Farah Angsana Fashion East Felder Felder Felipe Oliveira Baptista Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio Frank Tell -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gap Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Armour Gregory Parkinson G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Hakaan Halston Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland -
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Iceberg Imitation of Christ Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Karen Walker Kelly Wearstler Kenzo Kevork Kiledjian Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini -
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Naeem Khan NAHM Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Neil Barrett Nicholas K Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci No. 21 Norma Kamali -
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Paul & Joe Paul Smith Pedro Lourenço Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Philosophy Piazza Sempione Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Sacai Sachin + Babi Salvatore Ferragamo Sass & Bide Sharon Wauchob Sonia Rykiel Sophie Theallet Sportmax St. John Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Steven Alan Suno -
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Valentino Vanessa Bruno Vena Cava Vera Wang Véronique Leroy Versace Versus Victoria Beckham Viktor & Rolf Vionnet Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Wayne Wes Gordon Willow -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo Z Spoke by Zac Posen
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