Haider Ackermann Fall 2011 Ready-to-Wear Collection on Style.com: Runway Review

Haider Ackermann

PARIS, March 5, 2011

By Nicole Phelps

Haider Ackermann has been nurturing a growing fan base for several years now, but a little comment from Karl Lagerfeld that the Belgian-trained designer should be the man to replace him at Chanel one day, not to mention the fact that Ackermann has been named a potential Galliano replacement at Dior, means that positively everybody is paying attention now. He rewarded true believers and first-timers alike this morning with what might be the show of the season: beautiful, evocative, and transporting.

Leonard Cohen deserves part of the credit for the transporting element. A recording of his love song "A Thousand Kisses Deep" played on the sound system as the models glided slowly down the runway. Hard to resist a line like "I loved you when you opened like a lily to the heat." But to be sure, there was a lot of romance in these clothes.

After last season's foray into bold color and louche eveningwear, at first it seemed as if Ackermann was opting for restraint, opening with a pair of black coats with satin revers and loose, trailing backs. But then ivory, a hue we can't recall ever seeing at an Ackermann show, entered the picture, followed by rose-tinted sequins, and after that, brilliant combinations of jewel colors. "Exuberant" is the word for the way he wrapped, twisted, draped, and tucked tailored coats and jackets made from leathers, suedes, and silks. All the hallmarks of the Ackermann look were here: the action at the neckline; the small, belted waist; the sleeves rolled and pushed up past the elbows; the long, lean leg. This time, though, "it's a more masculine attitude," the designer said backstage. "Last season, she was letting herself go. Now she wants to be more reserved."

Maybe so, but a teal cutaway tuxedo jacket worn with a forest green silk top and full sapphire trousers that tapered to the ankle isn't the kind of look for going unnoticed in. And neither was the second-skin knit belted above an asymmetrical skirt—especially given that the latter revealed the better part of one leg, above which stirred a flounced leather peplum. This was a bravura performance from a singular designer.

See all from Haider Ackermann › Timeline

A.F. Vandevorst	Acne	ADAM
A Détacher	Akris	Alberta Ferretti
Albino	Alexander McQueen	Alexander Wang
Alexandre Herchcovitch	Alexis Mabille	Alice + Olivia
Altuzarra	Andrew Gn	Anna Sui
Ann Demeulemeester	Anne Valérie Hash	Ann-Sofie Back Atelje
Anthony Vaccarello	Antonio Berardi	Antonio Marras
Aquascutum	Aquilano.Rimondi	Araks
Azzaro

Badgley Mischka	Balenciaga	Bally
Balmain	Banana Republic	Band of Outsiders
Barbara Bui	Barbara Tfank	Basso & Brooke
BCBG Max Azria	Behnaz Sarafpour	Bensoni
Betsey Johnson	Betty Jackson	Bibhu Mohapatra
Bill Blass	Blumarine	Bodkin
Bottega Veneta	Brioni	Burberry Prorsum

Cacharel	Calvin Klein Collection	Carlos Miele
Carolina Herrera	Carven	Celine
Central Saint Martins	Chado Ralph Rucci	Chadwick Bell
Chalayan	Chanel	Charles Anastase
Charlotte Ronson	Chloé	Chris Benz
Christian Cota	Christian Dior	Christian Siriano
Christophe Lemaire	Christopher Kane	Christopher Raeburn
Clements Ribeiro	Collette Dinnigan	Comme des Garçons
Commuun	Costello Tagliapietra	Costume National
Creatures of the Wind	Cushnie et Ochs	Custo Barcelona
Cynthia Rowley	Cynthia Steffe

D&G	Damir Doma	Danielle Scutt
Daryl K	David Koma	Dax Gabler
Dennis Basso	Derek Lam	Diane von Furstenberg
Diesel Black Gold	DKNY	Dolce & Gabbana
Donna Karan	Doo.Ri	Douglas Hannant
Dries Van Noten	Dsquared²	Duro Olowu

Edun	Elie Saab	Elie Tahari
Elise Øverland	Emanuel Ungaro	Emilio de la Morena
Emilio Pucci	Emporio Armani	Erdem
Erin Fetherston	Etro