The exhausted fashion pack is heading into its fourth straight week of runway shows. It may have been the first day on the main stage of Paris, but we saw a lot of flats in the crowd at Hakaan. Still, the atmosphere at the Ritz was more anticipatory than resigned. The Turkish designer Hakaan Yildirim may not have had his most fabulous fan, Carine Roitfeld, in attendance this season, but his creative director, the photographer Mert Alas, had helped snag Daphne Guinness, whose own heel-less red platforms with tiny gold spikes looked like the result of a love match between Dorothy's ruby slippers and a pair of golf shoes. Where Guinness goes, glamour is not far behind.

The Hakaan show definitely was glam. It had all the top models, half of them in short, skintight dresses of the kind that helped Yildirim land last year's ANDAM Prize. For Fall the frocks came in red, black, or white, and often they were sleeveless, the better to appreciate Natalia Vodianova's guns, er, biceps. Some had flippy skirts that put you in mind of Azzedine Alaïa. The other half of the collection was more of a surprise. That would be the half where you might encounter an androgynous, oxford shoe-wearing girl in a boxy gray wool pantsuit in a fabric that says "not interested." "No hips," explained Alas of the directive he gave the models preshow. Yildirim loosened up last season's catsuits considerably; tonight's all-in-one might've married sheer and opaque, but it didn't look like you'd need to worry about splitting a seam if you exerted yourself on the dance floor. Black leather outerwear likewise had an oversize, masculine feel.

Yildirim's partnership with Alas, even more than the ANDAM award, has guaranteed him a crowd almost as A-list as his models. It's still early days for his brand. He gets points for delivering on one of the season's biggest trends so far: masculine-feminine.